A WHALE OF A TIME
After my two wonderful weeks in the Maldives, as guest of the Minister of Tourism, in which I had seen in depth 25 in resorts, including a new and exciting one in BAA ATOLL - KUNAFUNADHO - I flew into Sri Lanka.
My main objective was to head over to the East Coast - TRINCOMALI ( no rain for this time of the year 10th May) and dive with UNDERWATER SAFARIS. This is headed by ARTHUR C CLARKE, the famous novelist who lives in Colombo, and meet Hector and Valerie EKANAYAKE who run the diving.
I went to see Arthur who lives in Barnes Place. He had new Books in the pipeline, and was off to the UK the next day to appear on a TV. AM Breakfast show…and then to the States. That afternoon was expecting a visit from the PM of Sri Lanka. A busy dynamic fascinating man - I was very honoured to be spared so much of his obviously precious time.
Hector phoned Trinco, arranging for his assistant Raja to dive me, and for me to use his regulator! I would see he and Val again on my return
My main objective was to head over to the East Coast - TRINCOMALI ( no rain for this time of the year 10th May) and dive with UNDERWATER SAFARIS. This is headed by ARTHUR C CLARKE, the famous novelist who lives in Colombo, and meet Hector and Valerie EKANAYAKE who run the diving.
I went to see Arthur who lives in Barnes Place. He had new Books in the pipeline, and was off to the UK the next day to appear on a TV. AM Breakfast show…and then to the States. That afternoon was expecting a visit from the PM of Sri Lanka. A busy dynamic fascinating man - I was very honoured to be spared so much of his obviously precious time.
Hector phoned Trinco, arranging for his assistant Raja to dive me, and for me to use his regulator! I would see he and Val again on my return
UNDERWATER SAFARIS
Their 'village' is right on the beach. A very friendly atmosphere, simple. clean accommodation, open eating area. All the diving equipment for hire. Arranged my diving with Rata, a long legged lad!
Checked into the Oceanic Hotel. A few hundred yards along the beach, Surprise surprise, who should I bump into straight away but HERWATH VOIGTMAN. Dive Master of Bandos Resort. Last seen a week back in the Maldives.
Herwaths claim to fame, is his incredible SHARK CIRCUS he feeds the sharks by mouth and hand, before a captive audience at a depth of 15 metres. But he is also a brilliant underwater photographer, and was up in Trinco to film the Whales.
Checked into the Oceanic Hotel. A few hundred yards along the beach, Surprise surprise, who should I bump into straight away but HERWATH VOIGTMAN. Dive Master of Bandos Resort. Last seen a week back in the Maldives.
Herwaths claim to fame, is his incredible SHARK CIRCUS he feeds the sharks by mouth and hand, before a captive audience at a depth of 15 metres. But he is also a brilliant underwater photographer, and was up in Trinco to film the Whales.
When in the Maldives, we heard Trinco had Blue and Sperm Whales, but rumour had it, they had moved on, and we were too late.
The Marine Scientists from all over the world had been up at Trinco using the sloop TULIP to record the Whale songs and take soundings, but they had temporarily departed, Between 30 and 40 Whales had been only five miles from the harbour for the past two months.
Nothing daunted - 6.30am Herwath, myself and Siri the boat boy. In the speedboat went in search of the Whales.
In the speedboat we headed out to sea, calm, Whale Sharks, Swordfish - no whales! Twenty odd miles out, the water a deep violet, quite amazing, `hotting up. A brief stop for a welcome cool drink from the ice box. Of again .12 o'clock - Gosh it's boiling, more sun cream, not a cloud in the sky.
Panic! What’s this?! A visit from the Sri Lankan Navy! uniformed figures line the deck! They circle and circle around us.
I wave and wave, they move off Siri tells us that some British have recently been diving the wrecks from World War II.
In the area was HMS Hermes this was without permits, and removing relics unlawfully. Hence the visit.
2pm Dying of heat, huddled in my towel-like-igloo. A cry from Herwath "Toni, quick a blowing this is for Real ' My adrenaline soared. 75 yards away a vast brownish lump in the water, huffing and puffing its way very slowly. Engines all silent, Herwath dons his mask, fins and underwater cameras slips gently over the side I click away with my camera. It’s a Sperm Whale we are drifting closer and closer to the lump!
Suddenly - the back is humped, an enormous tail swishes in to the air, for just seconds, it's suspended up in the right position. The sperm Whales can stay down for anything up to an hour and go very deep, so we thought we should start back .
The Marine Scientists from all over the world had been up at Trinco using the sloop TULIP to record the Whale songs and take soundings, but they had temporarily departed, Between 30 and 40 Whales had been only five miles from the harbour for the past two months.
Nothing daunted - 6.30am Herwath, myself and Siri the boat boy. In the speedboat went in search of the Whales.
In the speedboat we headed out to sea, calm, Whale Sharks, Swordfish - no whales! Twenty odd miles out, the water a deep violet, quite amazing, `hotting up. A brief stop for a welcome cool drink from the ice box. Of again .12 o'clock - Gosh it's boiling, more sun cream, not a cloud in the sky.
Panic! What’s this?! A visit from the Sri Lankan Navy! uniformed figures line the deck! They circle and circle around us.
I wave and wave, they move off Siri tells us that some British have recently been diving the wrecks from World War II.
In the area was HMS Hermes this was without permits, and removing relics unlawfully. Hence the visit.
2pm Dying of heat, huddled in my towel-like-igloo. A cry from Herwath "Toni, quick a blowing this is for Real ' My adrenaline soared. 75 yards away a vast brownish lump in the water, huffing and puffing its way very slowly. Engines all silent, Herwath dons his mask, fins and underwater cameras slips gently over the side I click away with my camera. It’s a Sperm Whale we are drifting closer and closer to the lump!
Suddenly - the back is humped, an enormous tail swishes in to the air, for just seconds, it's suspended up in the right position. The sperm Whales can stay down for anything up to an hour and go very deep, so we thought we should start back .
Diving with RAJA
The next day we went to Sally Point, a few miles up the coast from the Village. Wonderful Coral gardens, friendly fish, enormous Crown of Thorns these are not good news! They kill off the reef. A very gentle and interesting dive of 55 minutes with Raja right by me. The boat boy cleaned my mask with tobacco juice - quite an excellent method far better than my spit! The next morning we dived twice. This time to Gobel Rocks. We dived for almost an hour picking up shells - something not allowed in the Maldives. Then up on deck for a rest. Fresh pineapple, fresh TANK , overboard into the rock caves to find the BIG GROUPERS ! I ducked out of this, can't go far into caves feel I will never get out!
Raja and I went to the Hot Spring springs at Kanniyai 3 round deep baths you start at the coolest moving slowly to the hottest. Some people were going in naked! Guess what I did! It was very good for your skin. Moving then to the Garrison by the Harbour where the British had been based, somewhat run down these days. Very friendly small Deer seemed to be in residence!
Swami Rock close by affords you a breathtaking beautiful sunset, but don't be tempted at Lovers Leap to take off! A quick visit to the OUR War Graves, beautifully kept, moving and sad.
Raja and I went to the Hot Spring springs at Kanniyai 3 round deep baths you start at the coolest moving slowly to the hottest. Some people were going in naked! Guess what I did! It was very good for your skin. Moving then to the Garrison by the Harbour where the British had been based, somewhat run down these days. Very friendly small Deer seemed to be in residence!
Swami Rock close by affords you a breathtaking beautiful sunset, but don't be tempted at Lovers Leap to take off! A quick visit to the OUR War Graves, beautifully kept, moving and sad.
Time to say goodbye I HAVE HAD A WHALE OF A TIME
