GAN, GLORIOUS GAN
My very first time
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My very good friend Mr Saeed, in my very early days in the islands said he would like to take me to GAN in Seenu Atoll. His home island.
This was right at the very bottom of the chain of the Maldive Islands, 296 miles from Male the Capital.
This was right at the very bottom of the chain of the Maldive Islands, 296 miles from Male the Capital.
The British Royal Air Force had a base on Gan from 1956 until 1976 and the Royal Navy had built an airstrip. Whilst traveling round the islands I had met many Maldive people who had been based on Gan during this time. They all just loved talking to me of the time they worked for the British and all seemed to have loved it... Adanan, Haleel, Habeeb, Zaki, to name just a few...
It was with much anticipation and excitement that Saeed and I took off with the whole plane to our self. Utterly spell bound, as this incredible chain of Atolls and islands passed beneath us. Quite unique.
Just before landing at Gan we had crossed the equator having just flown over a large island called Fuah Mulak. Saeed seemed to have the only car in Gan, very ancient! Some of the doors would not open. I had to climb across the drivers seat just to get to my seat. The two back doors were stuck. A short run to the old Sergeants mess. This was later on to become Gan Holiday Village.
I noticed at once the profusion of roses, frangipani and hibiscus. The British 'green finger touch'. Tall coconut palms and banana trees, Saeed told me that the White Tern only lived down there but loads of fruit bats.
It was with much anticipation and excitement that Saeed and I took off with the whole plane to our self. Utterly spell bound, as this incredible chain of Atolls and islands passed beneath us. Quite unique.
Just before landing at Gan we had crossed the equator having just flown over a large island called Fuah Mulak. Saeed seemed to have the only car in Gan, very ancient! Some of the doors would not open. I had to climb across the drivers seat just to get to my seat. The two back doors were stuck. A short run to the old Sergeants mess. This was later on to become Gan Holiday Village.
I noticed at once the profusion of roses, frangipani and hibiscus. The British 'green finger touch'. Tall coconut palms and banana trees, Saeed told me that the White Tern only lived down there but loads of fruit bats.
To meet me were all the island Chiefs and friends of Saeed. I was given a wonderful smelling frangipani necklace. So friendly and welcoming. The tour of the building was interesting to say the least! I quite expected British Corporals or Sergeants to pop out of the wood work!
Annigoni's painting of the Queen on the wall, old piano, bar, chairs, mess, the kitchen with old equipment just as it was.. ghostly..
A delicious fish curry lunch using all the old pots, cutlery and table. Then a a six mile drive to Feydhoo, Maradhoo, Hithadhoo. These in which the British had joined up with causeways..
In no time it was back to base and very sad sad farewells, all the chiefs said Please stay Please stay! I promised to return and have been to Gan 5 times since, just love it, will tell you why later!
A sad final up date. About 12 years back I was in Gan, a real sentimental journey. I had heard that Saeed was very ill. A car was arranged for me and I found his house on Hithadhoo. Large but horribly run down. I walked to the house. He must have seen me coming as he opened up. Many many years had passed. He knew me! We hugged. Not a word was said. So frail and thin. I saw no one there. He turned away, I hurried to the car and cried. Later having learnt he died soon after my visit.
Annigoni's painting of the Queen on the wall, old piano, bar, chairs, mess, the kitchen with old equipment just as it was.. ghostly..
A delicious fish curry lunch using all the old pots, cutlery and table. Then a a six mile drive to Feydhoo, Maradhoo, Hithadhoo. These in which the British had joined up with causeways..
In no time it was back to base and very sad sad farewells, all the chiefs said Please stay Please stay! I promised to return and have been to Gan 5 times since, just love it, will tell you why later!
A sad final up date. About 12 years back I was in Gan, a real sentimental journey. I had heard that Saeed was very ill. A car was arranged for me and I found his house on Hithadhoo. Large but horribly run down. I walked to the house. He must have seen me coming as he opened up. Many many years had passed. He knew me! We hugged. Not a word was said. So frail and thin. I saw no one there. He turned away, I hurried to the car and cried. Later having learnt he died soon after my visit.
THE ROYAL AIR FORCE - GAN
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200th Edition. January 21st 1967.
Editor - RT LT D.S.Brown
Illustrations by CPL G.H.Pritt
There was only one woman on Gan
Feydhoo gAN
Another visit to Gan to see the Library of books I had shipped out from the UK. It was up and running.
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At one classroom the children were reading my books. I asked the girls "who is the best reader?" Every hand went up! I then asked the boys. Again every boys hands went up! In the end they all took it in turns to read to me.
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I had brought out a puppet as a communal gift, so taught some of the children how it worked. A great success!
By this time Gan Holiday Village was renamed Equator, and all the old bits and bobs had been replaced by spanking new objects. A lovely freshwater swimming pool, tennis court, dive school, barrack rooms with air conditioning, showers and patios. And Bicycles. The joy of cycling round the Airport where at the end large waves are breaking onto the reef. Coming round the other side biking through forest paths to the old golf course covered in weeds. Small shops, tea rooms with Maldivian small eats. Relics of the British age. Cinema, squash court, transit hostel, post office and in a Hangar a garment factory manned by Sri Lankan women who live in the old Barracks.
Wonderful friendly locals a real chance to be with the REAL Maldives.
By this time Gan Holiday Village was renamed Equator, and all the old bits and bobs had been replaced by spanking new objects. A lovely freshwater swimming pool, tennis court, dive school, barrack rooms with air conditioning, showers and patios. And Bicycles. The joy of cycling round the Airport where at the end large waves are breaking onto the reef. Coming round the other side biking through forest paths to the old golf course covered in weeds. Small shops, tea rooms with Maldivian small eats. Relics of the British age. Cinema, squash court, transit hostel, post office and in a Hangar a garment factory manned by Sri Lankan women who live in the old Barracks.
Wonderful friendly locals a real chance to be with the REAL Maldives.
Very different from the rest of the Maldives, but very special.
