KUNFUNADHOO - BAA Atoll Maldives

'Tornie Zaki' the Manager of Ihuru resort called, "Four o'clock, the boat leaves at 5; your breakfast is ready".

How reminiscent of my Stewardess days with BOAC, I thought, - 'call time' transport in half an hour' was the cry then!

I had already seen twenty three resorts in the North and South Male Atolls, during my stay in the Maldives: Kunfunadhoo in Baa Atoll was to be my last port of call. A newly developed island as yet not open for business!

My stead, a sturdy diesel Dhoni boat some 30 feet long, with a newly built superstructure aloft.

Don, a likeable Maldivian lad of 22 years old, speaking good English, Captain Shiham and two boat boys made up our party.

We had heavy rain during the night black clouds still about, sea choppy. After a quick cup of coffee and fruit, clasping my meagre belongings, and farewell to Zaki I boarded Neliwaru.

A couple of hard benches, awning and walkie-talkie our sole equipment, I had wisely brought a pillow and screw-pine mat with me. Approximately 9 hours before one could expect sight of 'K'.

We trailed 2 lines hoping for a catch. Sunrise. A steady 8 knots. Suddenly - a bite - fair sized bonito into the bucket. Our walkie-talkie kept us in touch with the outside world, relaying our progress to Ijurfu and later on picking up  'K'  7.10am. Swell increasing, passing the resort of Henbadhoo on our left. Breakfast time for the crew. Hard boiled eggs, hot tea and bananas. Madivaru and Ziyaaraifushi resorts, Makunudhoo to our right, it wouldn't be long before we would be into the channel between North Male and Baa Atoll, and could expect rough weather.

Sure enough! Heavy rain - rough seas, we batten down the awnings, but this is transitory and soon back to a gentle swell, hot sun, idle thoughts, cooling breeze, salt spray, friendly dolphins and flying fish in plenty - very peaceful!

The crew constantly pumping water from the bilges, checking our position, talking on the walkie-talkie, playing cards.

I decided to teach Don backgammon - an amazing apt pupil! I must look to my laurels! Realisation suddenly hits me - There is no loo on board! and still a long way to go. A word in Don's ear! Passed down the line - 'all eyes to the front' - success! Tricky business!

2.30pm. Maneuvering through the shallow coral gardens alongside the jetty; a tremendous welcome from Thaa, the manager, and his staff.

Kunfunadhoo is a very, very beautiful island, large by resort standards, approximately one square mile. Fringed in wide superb white sand, plenty of palm trees. An airstrip has been cleared, for later use. The reception area, dining room, shop, dive school, all built in charming open-plan style, blending in harmony with the local vegetation. Bougainvillaea, screw pine, scented frangipani in profusion. Many low lying shrubs and thatched umbrellas dotted about affording plenty of shade. Outside the dining area, a large area, a large pond (lit at night) housing lobsters, small reef sharks and many colourful fish.

The rooms very attractive, all close to the beach. But my room was very special! From the reception area along a wide sandy path for some little distance to two tiny homes on stilts - just to date only two built - but more on the way - up a few wooden steps to a verandah and into a large very attractive room, the sea a stone's throw away. Delicious!

Jaleel joined me in a late lunch. An amusing character with a fund of stories! 'The island is at your disposal, Toni.'

Afternoon snorkeling - quite wonderful - no 'island hopping' tourists up in this part of the world! I think the fish know it - they were so cheeky and familiar! 'K' has a very,very 'away from it all' feeling. Magical.

Totally waterlogged, a quick shower in time to see a very sensational sunset, delicious lobster dinner, and a very welcome early night!

The sound of a cock crowing woke me - straight into the sea! Bliss. Breakfast with Don - and plans made for the day.

A quater of an hour away by Dhoni lies Eydhafushi, a fishing village, totally unspoilt and not a all touristy. After a delicious curry lunch we set off. In no time I had the role of the Pied Piper! Lovely friendly, non-exploitative people, both young and old, all round me. In charge of the Health Centre is Waheed, aged 20, he told me he had 14 months' medical training! But could stitch, deliver babies etc, etc, his skills sound unending!

Moosa, the Headmaster of the Government Community School, was talkative and friendly, his classes number 57, and the education to a very limited standard. I visited the Atoll Chief's office, meeting his secretary  - the Chief was away visiting another Atoll, alas - watched the building of a Dhoni boat, no electricity on this island - so the tools home-made, and simple. Chatted long into the evening, a wonderful and interesting visit. 

A five minute ride in the Dhoni, from 'K', careful manoeuvering between the corals into the wide shallow green lagoon with Nelly in the middle! The feel of fine sand, tiny white shells between the toes was a tingling experience.

The most amazing tracks three feet apart, like that of a moon buggy! traversing the bank. What could it possibly be? 'Turtles', said Don, 'they come in the night and lay their eggs. Come, Toni, let's go and find them.'

Screaming with laughter, running up and down following the tracks, what a pair we made! Success - a large hole, Don started digging. An egg! the size of a ping pong, soft and squidgy to touch, slightly opaque.

Then what did we see!!! Coming up the tracks, a very slow pace, mother Turtle, she is coming to lay her eggs!
We sat there in silence. Squatting down she starts to lay her ping pong eggs dropping into my hand.

Soon after turtles were not allowed to be caught ever, in-spite of them being eaten by the locals and others

Eliwaru

Late dinner, just a few hours of shut-eye, we sailed at two! I slept on deck the sea as calm as a millpond, twinkling stars bright and beautiful. God was in heaven, and all was right with the world.

I woke to the warmth of the early morning sun. Hot coffee  and Bokibaa for breakfast - this is a local dish made from coconut, flour and sugar, mixed together and baked in the oven! Utterly delicious!  Many more fish in the bucket! Beaten at backgammon! Ihuru in sight. 10.30am.